Submerge fitting and hose end in hot water for 60 seconds, it will pull out like a greased pole from a. Fully demonstrates what a good question it is.īoil kettle. On a "softer" coolant hose, silicone based dielectric grease should have no adverse consequences.
RUBBER HOSE CONNECTOR SERIES
I can't say that WD-40 is damaging, but I've used PB blaster on old cruddy hoses for removal and on new hoses to get them well over a series of barbs (older Toyota power steering for instance).Īgain I can't be sure, but I feel like a hose that is rated (SAE R or J spec) for fuel, ATF or power steering fluid will not be adversely affected by a bit of PB Blaster or Kroil or WD-40. Careful work with the pick tool pictured can save those rare ellusive hoses that you can't easily replace. On the other hand I'm the silly cheap type that rinses and dries toilet paper, so I get the dilemma.
Once you have the new one in hand, you don't care so much about damaging the old one. Probably should be a comment, but I'm too long-winded: if the hose (automotive) is really difficult to get off, with corrosion "welding" the rubber to the fitting. This will help it slide onto the fixture easier, will help it seal better, and when you have to pull it off again, makes it easier to come off. When re-installing the pipe, use a little bit of grease (high pressure or whatever. Pulling it straight off without breaking the seal just will not allow anything to happen without damaging something.
It's the adhesion which is formed which you are trying to break to allow it to pop off. If you can get the hose to turn on the pipe, it will pull off of it. With these I apply enough pressure on the rubber at the point the hose clamp was attached to hold it without deforming anything underneath, especially if what is underneath happens to be fragile or made of thin metal. I use a pair of pliers, monkey wrench, or vise-grips (depending on how big the hose is).There are three things I do with a rubber hose to get them removed:
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